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rezrider2
RTR Semi Pro
Canada
162 Posts |
 Posted - 10/02/2009 : 09:36:00 AM
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I have seen the video's and have tried blue printing the bottom of almost every boat i own except for my gas cat. My question, and it may be dumb is, i see everyone sanding (blue printing) the parts of the boat that comes into contact with the water but, how do you finish it off? Is it left sanded? Just flatened out, primed, painted and cleared? The whole idea of this is to make it as smooth as possible correct? Get rid of the imperfections of the RTR mould? Guys like AMAX, TWISTED and ROB who i know have done this, all have sweet looking paint jobs on thier "shiat" but u never see the bottom after it's done. Anyway. Any answers, even smart ass comments are appreciated.
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-1/12 Miss Llumar (.18 OSCVRM TLR MOD)
-1/12 Thunder Cat31 (Dynamite .32 TLR MOD) retired for now..
-Aeromarine Sprint Cat (23cc) ported, polished and balanced.
-Widow Maker 22in. (stock)
-1/12 Miss Llumar (.18 Aqu TLR MOD). |
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Amax
Moderator
USA
1750 Posts |
 Posted - 10/02/2009 : 11:19:33 AM
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Hey rezrider2, I Used to have a Decent Post on Printing Your Boat In here Somewhere But I'm Not Sure It's Still Around.
Printing is Mostly About Getting Rid Of Imperfections in the Riding Surface to Spread Out Friction Created by Surface Tension in the contact area, and Sharpening All the Square Edges Of the Ride Pads, which is Kinda Difficult to Explain How It Works, But By Squaring off the edges the Ride Pads Will Skip Across the Top Or the Water More, Where Rounded Edges Let it Sink More Creating More Drag.
After Painting Your Boat You will Want to Get A Good FLAT Sanding Block and some Fine Wet\Dry Sand Paper(220 to 400grit) and wet sand(Block) all the ride surfaces down until you have NO Shiny Spots,
When Blocking You want to Sand In 1 Direction, Start at the Front and Sand Toward the back Just Like The Water Goes Across IT.
Then Hit Your Sides to Sharpen up the square edges.
Now when your doing the sides, especially the outside surfaces that are seen, you only need to go about a 1\2 inch up from the bottom where the water is contacting the boat. You can Use Masking tape to tape off a straight line and sand up to it that way you don't have stray sanding marks down the side of your boat.
When You Have All That Done, You Can Move On To The Parts.
Shiny Bottoms and Shiny Parts DON"T MAKE SPEED!!!
Now to Actually Answer Your Question:
You want to Leave The Ride Surfaces and Areas of Parts That Contact the water to Stay Sanded. Slick Paint on the Bottom of Your Boat Actually Creates Like A Suction to the Water.
The Easiest Way I Can Think To Explain Or Demonstrate How it works, Is Take 2 Flat Surface Both Painted 1 Sanded 1 Nice And Shiny, Set them at a little angle so water will run off, and wet em Down and Watch How The Water Runs OFF.
The Shiny Surface Will Tend To Bead the Water Together, then Just Kinda Wonder around and collect more water until it finally hits an edge and drops off.
The Sanded Surface Will Run The Water Straight Off The Back until you have an even film across it and dry from the top down as the water continues to run off the back.
Now How Does This Affect Speed???
WELL,,That goes Back To Surface Tension & Friction.
The Shiny Surface Like I said Beads The Water, creating contact in some areas and not in others, which creates More Friction in Those Areas, More Friction=Less Speed
The Sanded Areas Will Spread The Water Out Evenly Across the Entire Area, therefore spreading weight & Friction out Evenly Across The Entire Area, Which Creates Less Friction,, Less Friction = MORE Speed |
http://www.youtube.com/user/topspeedhobbies
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rezrider2
RTR Semi Pro
Canada
162 Posts |
Posted - 10/02/2009 : 12:43:34 PM
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| knowledge you have for sure. LOL. Thanks! Thought i had the right answer. Just got to get it all workin together now. Thanks again. |
-1/12 Miss Llumar (.18 OSCVRM TLR MOD)
-1/12 Thunder Cat31 (Dynamite .32 TLR MOD) retired for now..
-Aeromarine Sprint Cat (23cc) ported, polished and balanced.
-Widow Maker 22in. (stock)
-1/12 Miss Llumar (.18 Aqu TLR MOD). |
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Billy
CERTIFIED ZONER
USA
2998 Posts |
Posted - 10/02/2009 : 3:16:15 PM
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hey brother go to this part in the forum. look down 4 or 5 post and watch the short video i have on blueprinting the bottom.
http://rtrzone.forumco.com/topic~TOPIC_ID~2482.asp
hope this helps out. |
BILLY BAD ASS
1/8 Miss Budweiser zen 26
1/12 Mod Miss Budweiser go.18
1/12 Mod Miss Budweiser aqu.18
1/12 Pro Boat Miss Sundance aqu.18
MRP Electric Tunnel
31" Prather mono OS.21
41" Prather mono KB.67
42" Custom Wood John Finch Wild Thing MAC.67
http://www.youtube.com/user/MrRckings |
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rtrzone
Admin
USA
435 Posts |
Posted - 10/02/2009 : 8:54:43 PM
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| IF im painting a boat I get all the ride surfaces as true as can possibly be done--AFTER paint/clear you loose a little of that perfect surface BUT I also take into account for this when spraying and usually spray a little extra clear on the bottom so it can be blocked back in and not get into the color coat. most of the time all thats needed is a little shine removal with some 600g wet back to front only |
Administrator
RTR Zone
http://www.rtrzone.com |
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JOSEPHKING1971
RTR Semi Pro
USA
452 Posts |
Posted - 10/02/2009 : 9:31:24 PM
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| now thats some smooth addvice by the boss yaaaa |
JOE KING  |
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wurster
RTR Semi Pro
USA
484 Posts |
Posted - 10/02/2009 : 10:57:29 PM
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| Amax is back good to see you back .Good info as usual. |
wurster
Miss A Go pro .25
Pro Boat go .18
Miss Vagas moded 18
Miss Emily
theres a reson you are be hind me
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JOSEPHKING1971
RTR Semi Pro
USA
452 Posts |
Posted - 10/03/2009 : 09:15:24 AM
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| and billy too i rewacthed your vid good stuff guys good stuff |
JOE KING |
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Topic |
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blue printing
