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 Newbie - 1st Nitro, Miss Elam Stock
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RTR Rookie

3 Posts

Posted - 05/21/2010 :  8:28:55 PM  Show Profile Send trope a Private Message  Reply with Quote
This is my first post. My name is John, I just bought my first nitro boat. Miss Elam. I am very new to the hobby.

Here is my 4th tank of gas ( as I followed the manual to the letter ).

I was considering going to brushless, but the more and more I talk with members, the more I am liking my nitro.

I just thought I would introduce myself, and my boat.




1190 Posts

Posted - 05/21/2010 :  8:38:35 PM  Show Profile  Visit 21bart's Homepage  Send 21bart a Yahoo! Message Send 21bart a Private Message  Reply with Quote
welcome to the zone john,your elam looks good,but sounds like shes running a little rich.theres alot of good guys on hear,that can give you some good info on how to make that miss elam hall ass.
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RTR Rookie

3 Posts

Posted - 05/21/2010 :  9:03:19 PM  Show Profile Send trope a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Wow, what a quick reply! For those who may not know, 21bart was the member who not only recommended this forum, but also thoroughly answered a You Tube comment from me on one of his videos ( which incidentally gave me the 'bug' ).

While I have a wider audience, and don't feel like I am bothering one individual member, I have read my manual, I have tried messing with the high speed needle, but when I do it on land (using a home made water cooling system ) it sounds great, it appears to run fast, and I think I have mastered my little motor.


I bring it to the lake (albeit , each time, the lake was choppy ), I put it in, and when I hit the throttle it will stall. Fortunately, this happens so close I can go get it.

Manual says to expect a blue smoke out the back. I do see that.

But still stalls. So I back off the needle, and voila. Well... voila to a point.

When I put it to the throttle, here is what the engine is doing in a timeline of a couple seconds as far as RPM'S:

10 - 20 - ALMOST STALL - 20 - 30 - ALMOST STALL - 60 - 70 - 80 - 100

Eventually it get's there.

Any sharp turn at low speed, almost stalls, ass end appears to sink, and then CHUG CHUG CHUG until it gets back up to speed. Almost like she doesn't like slow speeds, but as I was telling 21bart, I personally think that water may be getting in the hull.

After a run like I just describes, I will unscrew the hull cover, and water will pour out of where the motor is. The radio electronics appear to stay dry.

I was a bit frustrated. I was not seeing the speed I anticipated for the money I put forth. I was leaning towards the brushless, but I am not ready to give up.

Thing is, I am a computer programmer, and no nothing about motors.

Anyways, thanks for having me here. It's a pleasure to virtually-hang with people with the same interests.


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2180 Posts

Posted - 05/21/2010 :  10:20:49 PM  Show Profile  Visit Amax's Homepage  Send Amax a Yahoo! Message Send Amax a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Welcome to The Zone,,,

Hey john I guess were on opposite ends of the spectrum,, I'm a born and bread Gear Head,, Learning to build Computers, networks, setting up servers, web site, etc...

1st thing, it's good you read the manual and you got started,, Now Toss It,, if you want that boat to actually thrill you.. You will be told to do many things in here to go faster that won't jive with what that manual says,,,The manufacturer is not going to tell you Anything that you might be able to say caused you to smoke an engine. You have to determine for yourself how fast you want to go compared to how much risk your willing to take to get there. ANY Engine(not just R\C) you increase HP in, also increases the risk of Engine Failure.

the engine you have is not like a car you just bought and want to go scream down the interstate with, it has to be broke in, the piston wedges itself into the top of the sleeve to make a seal, what happens during Break In is the piston and sleeve are Slapping together and ponding each other in to shape,, Literally. The ONLY Thing that will do this is Drive It and Be Patient.

Does that boat have the Dynamite .15 with a Red head or the Pro Boat .18 with a Blue head?

What Brand Fuel and what Nitro% are you using? What Glow Plug?

Get a metal prop, that plastic prop is just enough to get it moving on the water the first time during break in while Horse Power is not at full levels. A Sharpened and Balanced Octura Y535 will be your best starting place on a prop, never run a raw metal prop always Sharpen and Balance it or purchase it already done.( I will be posting a few Finished Props in the trader zone next week sometime, I think I have a couple 535's)

Get a inferred temp gage, thats the easiest way to learn how to tune your engine. Point it directly at the glow plug to get temp reading.
Your engine temp should be "Around" 170*f to 180*f at the glow plug.

If it is Cold or below 170* then it is Running Rich, meaning it is getting To Much Fuel for the amount of air the engine is sucking through the carb. You need to Lean the engine.

If it is Hot or Over 180* then it is To Lean, meaning it is not getting enough fuel for the amount of air the engine is sucking through the carb, and will need to be Richened.

To Richen the engine you turn the High Speed Needle(HSN) Counter Clockwise (Out).

To Lean the engine you turn the High Speed Needle(HSN) Clockwise(in).

Yes your boat Will Take on water, they all do, race boats take on even more especially when running in another boats Prop Wash,,LOL,, there are ways to drain it as you run, but I"m not gonna Hunt and Peck that much tonight..

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RTR Rookie

3 Posts

Posted - 05/21/2010 :  11:57:27 PM  Show Profile Send trope a Private Message  Reply with Quote
Nice to meet you, Amax!

To answer your questions...

1. I have the Dynamite .15

2. I used Traxxas Nitro 20% for two tanks, then went to 30%

3. As far as glow plugs, I used the one that came with it, until I 'thought' it went bad, and bought another one. The reality of the situation was, the glow plug charger was dead, so I think I put in another Traxxas one, as my local hobby store is car-orientated.

4. I read enough (thanks to guys like you) to know I need a metal prop. I purchased a prop balancer, and am prepared for when I get my Octura Y535. I printed out a PDF on how to properly balance it, and sharpen it.

Now regarding the engine temperatures.... I have not had experience in that yet. But your explanation is spot on, I sure do appreciate it.

Not only did the manual my motor came with not provide me with an explanation as thorough as yours , regarding "rich" and "lean", but I also spent hours on the net as well. This is a great tip!

Regarding taking on water, wow do I disagree here....

I have invested hundreds of dollars in my new found hobby, and I follow the manual to the letter - I seal the electronics fully. Nothing gets in, but when I hit one little wave, the motor stalls?? Nah... this is either poor design, or me being ignorant. I have watched videos on You Tube of the same boat (probably elec) tackling much bigger waves than the one(s) that have crippled me.

Either I need to seal the hatch, or address a problem that is unknown to me.

And LASTLY, forgive me if this needs it's own post, ( I just need a high level overview here ) but I have a little rescue boat that is on the same frequency as my Elam. How do I change? Any link would be appreciated here.

Thanks again.


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2180 Posts

Posted - 05/22/2010 :  08:45:50 AM  Show Profile  Visit Amax's Homepage  Send Amax a Yahoo! Message Send Amax a Private Message  Reply with Quote

Get extra Glow Plugs, Glow plugs burn out regularly and will end a day at the pond if you don't have extras. You will want Hot Plugs for running the Low% Nitro Fuel. I personally prefer the McCoy Plugs I've had a lot of good luck with them.

The stalling or Dogging can be a couple things,
Until the engine is fully broke in that engine is not producing full power.

If the engine is still Rich it is not producing Full Power.

If it is in fact taking on Extreme amounts of water and causing the problem, then check the seams up front. the Pro Boats are Notorious for splitting the seams on the Sponsons and across the front of the cockpit area that connects the Sponsons.

When you get the engine broke in good, then you can remove the Head and take the shims out to increase Compression, which will increase Horse Power.

Always Grease the drive shaft frequently. it is a good practice to remove the drive shaft at the end of the day, Dry it off, and grease it, and either Store it or reinstall it with lots of grease on it. It Will Rust if Put Away Wet!!

Dang it's been a long time since I messed with the stock AM radios but I think the Crystal for that set up is on the back of the transmitter and it's right on top of the receiver, they should pull out but be gentle and rock it side to side a little as you pull pressure on it. Horizon Hobby sells different frequency crystals.

When you get tired of the 15 and want to go faster you can put an 18 in it. If you hang around here long enough you will learn how to make one run like this.


Edited by - Amax on 05/22/2010 08:52:23 AM
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